These are the last of the ufo pillow cases. There are 2 of each fabric.
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These are the last of the ufo pillow cases. There are 2 of each fabric.
Posted at 11:57 AM | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBack (0)
I have been working on this little bishop since last fall. I was inspired by rick-rack edging for the candy corn smocking at the neckline.
Posted at 11:42 AM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)
Posted at 11:23 AM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)
Many of you know we have been house hunting for almost a year. We have the luxury of living where ever we want as long as there is an airport within driving distance. We have decided to stay in Virginia. This place is just too beautiful to leave, add the American history and there is no place more perfect.
Posted at 10:51 AM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)
A play on color made this bishop fun to watch as it developed. I wanted to use shades of one color but didn't want to pick which shade went where, so I decided to smock my design in a shading manner. This technique can be used for any smocking plate.
Posted at 08:26 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)
I had a comment in the Wee Care section asking where I find ANCHOR FLOSS.
Posted at 11:57 AM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)
I received this question from the sewing forum at Allbrands. I wrote more than their space allows for an answer so here is the full story.
Thank you for asking! And thanks for saying you enjoy the blog. I love having my own space to share tips. I love answering questions, so feel free to ask!
"Hi! I cannot tell you how glad I was to come across you on here! I read your blog over and over and I have still managed to mess up the bishop. I practiced on fabric so many times and then I went to pleat a baby bishop and I think I may cry
I know you are probably so very busy, but if you have just a minute, would you mind telling me how to roll my fabric on the dowel so it goes through correctly? I rolled it so the top edge stayed lined up and it just bunched the rest of the way down so of course it bunched going through the pleater and I just had to walk away and leave it. What should I do now?
Thank you so very much for your time and help!
T"
Take the fabric out of the pleater and start over. Remove the needles and gathering threads. Press the fabric flat. A little spritz of water will get rid of the pleat marks if there are any.
Pleating is something that is a LEARNED technique. You don't inherently know the activity. Therefore, it takes practice. Good for you for practicing! Now you are ready to move on to a new item, again, it will take practice.
The dowel only has ONE purpose: to keep the excess fabric out of the pleater. It does not control the fabric. It does not guide the top edge.
You can roll that bishop onto the dowel fairly wonky and it will still work. Roll a seamed piece on a flat surface like an ironing board, hanging the majority of the fabric off the front of the board. Begin rolling the fabric on the dowel, rolling toward you, drawing the fabric up as you go. Fold the underarm fabric to one side or the other to keep it neat. You will NEVER get your top edge rolled perfectly because there are seams and extra fabric below the arm curves.
You need to pleat with the seams UP where you can see them to manipulate them into the roller grooves. I know some pleaters tell you that this is not going to put your gathering thread through the pleat at the correct depth. IT DOESN’T MATTER! The pleat is still the same size whether the gathering thread is closer to the top, middle or bottom of the pleat. You are ALWAYS going to stitch avoiding the gathering thread.
Now that you understand these two things, the rest will make sense. You will control the fabric feeding into the pleater with your hand. I pleat with my needles facing me, turning the handle with my right hand therefore, I control the fabric with my left hand.
~Make
certain you are pleating only the STRAIGHT part of the arm's
curve. On a baby
bishop, this may be as little as 6-7 Rows and that includes any holding Rows.
~The fabric going into the pleater will feed at the left hand side (needles facing me) and ONLY the portion being pleated goes into the pleater. The rest of the fabric will be flopping around at the outside of the pleater. I say flopping because at this point, that extra fabric is rolled loosely and most of the time will hang awkwardly off the dowel. THAT IS OK! You are controlling the area to be pleated at the pleater edge with your hand and the grip of the rollers.
~Make certain the first edge of your fabric, probably a back edge, is entering the pleater rollers perfectly straight. This is where a third hand would be great! I hold my fabric edge at the rollers spreading my fingers apart to control as much of the fabric as possible, holding my tongue just right! Then with my right hand turn the handle just a tiny bit to get the rollers to grip the fabric. Once that is in place, I take a deep breath and start pleating.
~KEEP THE TOP EDGE OF THE FABRIC PERFECTLY ALIGNED WITH ONE SINGLE NEEDLE GROOVE THE ENTIRE TIME YOU ARE PLEATING! I think this is the most often missed part of pleating that results in problems. And I mean ONE groove! I am so anal when I pleat that I even pick an inside or outside edge of the needle groove I am using as my guide.
If your top edge has a curve like the Ellen McCarn bishop pattern, you still need to keep the fabric edge aligned with a groove. This is where your CONTROLLING HAND is really going to get a work out! You may need to be pulling slightly more fabric in at the bottom portion of the needles to keep everything straight.
Once you approach the first seam, you are going to see just how much adjustment needs to be made to get the seam aligned parallel to the rollers so the seam will fit into the grooves.
One thing that will help beginning pleaters is to draw a wash out marker line on your garment. Half way across each section: back, sleeve, front, sleeve, back, draw a line perpendicular to the top edge, parallel to the edges and seams. This gives you a visual to see if your pleating is staying even and straight. Corrections can be made GRADUALLY to align the fabric feeding correctly again.
Pleating isn’t a lickity split quick activity. Even an experienced pleater takes her time when pleating her fabric. Just like the rest of the steps of the process, you will learn to enjoy pleating rather than fear it.
Thanks for reading along! I know this was a long one!
Enjoy the day!
maggieb!
Posted at 10:55 AM | Permalink | Comments (2) | TrackBack (0)
Trellis Stitch vs. Wave Stitch
Thank you to my faithful readers who sought the answer to this question on my blog. I am honored.
My answer to the question what is the difference between the wave and trellis stitch:
THERE IS NO DIFFERENCE, THE TERMS ARE INTERCHANGABLE.
The person asking the questions said that I was incorrect! HHHMMMM…OK… let me research. I would hate to be telling my friends the wrong smocking information.
A little background: I started smocking 27 years ago this month when I was preggers with the Little Man. This is how my first lesson happened:
We were new to Little Rock AFB in Jax AR. The First Lieutenant’s sponsor’s wife called me asking me if I was interested in going to a smocking class with her. I said YES (probably a little too eagerly…). She asked “you don’t know what smocking is, do you?” I said NO, but that didn’t matter! I thought smocking meant we were going to make smocks/aprons.
Anywho! We go to our first (and only) class! Mary Lee Henderson was the teacher. Class was at her breakfast table. I look back and wonder if she would be pleased at the monster she created? I took to smocking like a duck to water. Pat, my new friend, didn’t really care for it. Mary Lee…she is probably one of the biggest reasons I am generous with my knowledge. I would buy a single piece of fabric and take it to her. She would cut out, assemble and pleat bishops and bonnets (even lace edged them for me!) for next to nothing. And I was a very impatient person. I would call her a couple days after I dropped off the fabric to ask it had been readied for me. She was always kind and generous with me. I try to keep up her example.
Now, back to the questionnaire for the stash contest points. I am not fighting for that single point (my points are not even close to breaking the top ten!) instead I want to make sure everyone in the smocking world understands smocking stitch terminology. The point of the background story is that I have been smocking for a LONG time. I have read a book or two on the subject. I have studied at the hand of the masters like Laura Jenkins Thompson and Elizabeth Travis Johnson. I learned from the goddesses of our art.
So the question, what is the difference between a TRELLIS stitch and a WAVE stitch?
AGAIN, I say: NOTHING. The term is used interchangeable depending on the source you choose to quote.
1. Reference: Perfecting Picture Smocking, LJThompson; p.25.
Basic Wave or
Trellis
“Rows 2 and 7 are
formed as a baby wave (trellis)-5 cable combination. Waves or trellises give a chevron or ‘V” effect.”
The story continues on to show each term with the same diagram.
2. Reference: English Smocking, The Children’s Corner, Inc.; p4.
Three topics referring to the stitches, using the terms interchangeably:
“BABY WAVE
TRELLIS
TWO-STEP WAVE”
3. Reference: Simply Smocking, Jenny Bradford; p25.
Trellis Stitch
“(Often referred to as wave)”
4. Reference: London Gardens, Martha Pullen, Ph.D.; p 97.
WAVES AND TRELLISES
“The stitch can be known as a wave or trellis. Either is correct; I choose to call it a wave.”
I apologize to my
readers who are fellow stash contest participants who might have missed the
bonus points over this one question. IF you did, please feel free to reference
my blog as documentation that you were correct.
smock on!
maggieb!
Posted at 09:02 PM | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)