maggiebsmocks

Happy Birthday Cup Cake

I made two Children's Corner Carol apron dresses for twins a couple weeks ago. 

 

I promised to share the cup cake plate. Yes, there are many cup cake smocking plates on the market. However, none of them was the right size for such a small smocking area: 5Rows, 34 Pleats, so I designed my own.

The numbers for each pass are on the plate drawing except the cup cake/ paper pass: 2,3,3,7,3,3,2.

I pleated with all half spaces. I used an outline stitch for backsmocking  ALL of the half spaces. I wanted to keep those fat pleats tight!

I smocked with 5 strands of Anchor cotton floss. Usually, 4 strands is enough for stacking cables but this fabric was thick and I felt the extra strand was needed for better coverage. 

Begin smocking on R3.5 with the solid brown/white (chocolate or vanilla?) pass. Work the rest of the cables upward and downward from that pass to center the design. This will work whether you are using 4 or 5 strands of floss.

I added a few french knots to look like sprinkles. The candle is a series of 5-6 spool stitches with one last French knot for the flame.

 

Here is Stephanie's post about the twins first birthday. It has been an amazing journey watching these two over the past year. I'm thrilled MommaStephanie let me come along for the ride.

Smock on!

maggieb!

Pascale by Laura Jenkins Thompson via Sew Beautiful

MissEm and I decided to use Pascale by Laura Jenkins Thompson for the flower girl dress her Wedding. The simple, classic lines will suit her wedding perfectly. I ordered yardage of her wedding gown fabric from the designer Modern Trousseau so the bitty gown will coordinate perfectly with Em's.

Pascale has been a very popular pattern for Sew Beautiful. I wonder if it is the most frequently varied pattern used on the pages over the years? Here it is on the cover: Sew Beautiful, Issue 103. Other issues include the pattern issues of 80 and 114. 

One of my  blog linkers, Sew Blessed has a lovely example adding piping to the sleeves, neckline and waist: Direct link to Cindy's piped Pascale version.

Here is the size 5. I used flannel by Riley Blake Designs "Be Merry" by My Mind's Eye. I lined the sleeves with Imperial broadcloth. 

 

 

Since this was my virgin Pascale and I had no directions other than what was written on the pattern pieces, I winged it. The sleeves are supposed to be lined. I piped the bottom of the sleeves. Unfortunately, I French seamed the under arm. WAY! too bulky!

I did not line the bodice based on the fold back recommended at the back. I would prefer to redraft it to have a full lining and sew it ala Chery Williams Basic Yoke Dress pattern directions.

I used a simple, single tuck for the hem treatment.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Not knowing if a size 5 will fit, I made a size 6 too. I had been forewarned the dress runs small across the shoulders by the girls at Delphi forums.

This one is Katie Jumprope by Denyse Schmidt. This fabric is out of print and precious. I swallowed hard when Miss Em asked me to use it for a sample. Of course, it is going to a precious child, so I don't mind.

 

I used bias bindings for the neck and sleeve edges, Imperial broadcloth, rice color.

 

Yes, this one is floor length. I need the mom to see length as well as shoulder size. I will shorten this one to play dress length when she comes back for the Wedding.

Mom will try these on Little Bit and then we will work out what size to make of the silk fabric.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here is a close up of the front and back of the dresses. Sewing time on these was about 5 hours each. I am a fairly slow sewist though. I suspect a quicker seamstress could make one in 3 hours.

                                                

Now to make a couple samples for Little Boy's set...

Enjoy!

maggieb!

A-Line Hem Treatment Using Lace

From the peter pan collar to the high puffed sleeves with piped bias bands to the buttoned back belt, everything about the CAROL shouts southern apron.

Traditionally sewn with an inverted box pleat at the center front, the smocked panel brings this Children's Corner classic up to date.

The fabric is brown and pink houndstooth brushed cotton by Fabric Finders. I purchased the last of it from Farm House Fabrics, however it is still available from other sources.

I used German Interfacing from Debbie Glenn to interface the front collars. I created the collars using this method demonstrated by Gail Doane. I used brown batiste for the under layer of the collars and bias neck tape.

 

 

 

 

 

This particular fabric presented a couple problems. It is the heavier weight brushed cotton. And it is a houndstooth weave. Imagine a boucle fabric with fine threads. That is how this weave behaved when cut. It wanted to ravel just looking at it! While the German interfacing did the trick controlling the collar sections I needed to be creative at the hem.

 

Not only was the hem fraying, it was an A-line cut.

Next to my sewing machine is my stack of lace drawers. Lightbulb moment: use lace to 1. cover the fraying hemline and 2. draw up the A-line hem.

I just happened to have an ecru piece of lace edging from Luc that had a flaw in one portion. It was plenty of lace to cover my hemline! See, the pretty lace? 

 

I could have used vintage rayon hem tape. Or even polyester lace. But this needed to be soft and kind to a baby's chubby little legs so the French cotton lace, albeit slightly flawed, was perfect!

I sewed two passes of straight machine stitching (L2.0) to secure the lace well.

 

Note the lace edge is toward the dress and the heading is just off the edge of the hem.

 

 

 

The Carol pattern calls for a 3" hem with a 1/4" turn under. Again, this fabric is heavy so I wanted to avoid any extra bulk in the hem area. This lace treatment help me avoid that bulk. I did reduce the hem to 2". Giving a little extra length to vintage patterns helps make the dress more current.

To hem an A-line dress you need to work wide fabric into a narrow area. Normally you would run gathering threads along the hem and draw them up slightly OR simply fold fabric to compensate. Remember, this is a bulky fabric so I did not want to use folds.

 

 

 

 

 

Begin by measuring and pinning at each edge, the side seams and the center front of the dress.

Using the drawstring of the lace heading pull the hem up to fit each section.

Note, this looks bumpy and bulky. That is OK!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Use heavy steam and barely press down on the 'bumps'. Just lift the iron up and down, moving along the hemline. The steam and slight pressure should mold the hem into shape!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Once you have 'set the hemline' pin in place. It will look like this:

NOTE: THE BUTTERFLY PINS ARE FOR VISUAL DEMONSTRATION ONLY! 

ONLY USE GLASS HEAD PINS WHEN STEAMING/IRONING!

 

 

 

 

This is what the hem looks like from the inside after slip stitching in place. Since this is for a soon to be walking cherub, I tacked the hem ever few inches to add security.

 

 

 

 

The only thing more fun about the dress making was getting to make TWO! Can you believe it has been a year since I was sharing their preemie gowns?

 

I'll post about the cupcakes another day. I need to polish the graph so you can see it.

 

 

Smock on, Friends!

maggieb!

Michael is resting now

Back in June, I asked for prayers to see my brother through his fight with lung cancer. A mighty warrior he was, taking the worst they could give him. He enjoyed his last few months with his family despite the treatments. Please continue to pray for his wife, Sandy and their children: Michael, Mandi and Elly. And for my mom. She will bury another child this week. No mother should have to endure this pain.

Read about our visit in June. (Hey Everyone entry)

All my best to each of you,

maggieb!

A Christmas Wish

To my friends, family, enemies, to anyone and everyone:

I admit it: I have a girl crush on Heather Ross. I love her spirit, her humor and her candidness.

I am asking for nominations for a Weekend with Heather at Blueberry Hill. Actually, I am begging. PLEEEASSSEEE! If I have helped you in anyway with your sewing, smocking, day to day life, PLEASE! nominate me! 

Heather Ross's Blog

 

You know I would not take the last piece of sushi (chocolate, however is a different story) and I am the kind of person who would replace the empty ice cream box with a fresh container ... (read Heather's post to get that ;) )

 

Here are a couple things I have made recently with Heather's fabric. 

A biscornu pin cushion and mini-ham from Heather's Munki Munki pajama line. Yes, I cut apart a perfectly good pj top to harvest the fabric. Not to worry, I left the kitty ones intact and wear them as pjs.

For those of you who don't know the story of the MUSIC TRUCK, let me share. To the ordinary family, the image below might bring back memories of scraping for coins and running to the curb to snag a a Rocketsicle or drumstick or even a lowly popsicle.

But to my Sonny, that was the MUSIC TRUCK. It arrived at the first sign of Spring and disappeared as the first snow fell. It drove up and down the tiny streets getting closer and closer with its music getting louder and louder. And we danced. Yes we sang la-la-la-la and spun around in circles with delight.

But we never let on that the truck was anything more than a big music box.

Until the last day in our little neighborhood, when Sonny had just turned 3 years old. Daddy took him to the curb and had the MUSIC TRUCK stop.

And our little man had his first Ice Cream truck treat. Yes, I am still trying to live that one down.

 

This is fabric from Heather's West Hill Collection. I combined two prints to make a wool stuffed pin cushion for myself.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here it is upright with a scale so you can see the size.

 

If you are still with me, please, don't assume someone else will take time to nominate me. PLEASE, take the time to do this one huge favor for me.

 

Please?

 

Thanks! You're the Best!

maggieb!